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That far, it hadn’t been so easy to go swimming. Either the water was freezing, or the waves were too strong, and my towel was only useful as a scarf since the wind was blowing like crazy (cf. above). But today is different. Today, we are in Surf City !
Ladies & gentlemen, this is Torquay, Australia’s surfing capital, where people have been surfing since 1939. Bell Beach, the most famous spot of the city has been featured in many iconic surf movies, from The Endless Summer in 1966 to Point Break more recently.
In complete osmosis with our new fellow citizens, we buy body boards, a sport originating from Polynesia: Cook recorded seeing Hawaiian villagers riding such boards when he came to Hawaii in 1778 !
And we’ve bought the LA model from Red Back Surf – LA is the name of an awesome Rock Shelf break at South Avalon NSW, Australia. It is called L.A. (Little Avalon) because it is a short peaky fast Bodyboarding wave that works fantastically in a south-easterly swell.
So, in a nutshell, we are ready to face the legend !!
Though, it is rather cold and I’m glad I’ve brought my neoprene overall – I’m wearing an O’Neill, the maker of the first wetsuit, in San Francisco, But here, I’d better wear a QuickSilver or a RipCurl one, two brands born here, in Torquay !
Both of them were created in 1969: The “short board revolution” of 1967 has created a frenzy of experimentation in surfboard design and surfing technique. The world seems to need new surfing material, from boards to apparel…
So, here we are, ready for our new adventure…
… Very unfortunately, today there are no waves :(((
We’ll try again tomorrow !!!